The lightweight drywall panels meet the same performance standards as interior ceiling boards as they are more resistant to sagging.
An often overlooked factor is the insulation in the ceiling. Always consider the weight of the insulation: half inch regular drywall can support 1. For reference, blown-in fiberglass insulation is approximately 0. Plus, looking for more drywall tips from the pros?
Learn how to select the right finish for the right walls. And it is a butt joint where there is no taper to help make a clean plaster seam.
I like what you said about the right direction to hang the drywall. My sister needs to install drywall in her home. It would be really useful if she could get a professional to help her out. I liked what you said about how drywall is typically stronger when hung in the long direction than the short direction.
My husband and I are remodeling one of the rooms in our house and need to replace the drywall now that the wiring has been fixed. Thank you for the information about how doing the hanging this way will mean there is much less chance of sagging when attached perpendicular.
Sometimes there is benefit to hanging it horizontally, as outlined in the blog, but that would not change manufacture of the board. Both flip it and press firmly onto ceiling. Eye spot it then screw it in. Screws not nails. Mark your canisters j-boxes off of two different points. When sheet is put over, screw loosely into place not completely and not near canisters. Go at your mark, this will be the inside of canister cut to the edge.
Pull out and now you can tell where the outside edge is. Cut a circle with an angle so you are not eating away the seen drywall. Think of an underbank on a river's edge: top is fine yet under is swept away. On the 4' runs of drywall, 5 screws will suffice. One per edge, one in middle and one each off the middle between the edges.
Seams staggering screws but many more, 1 screw per 2 inches. Also all screws flat not sunken in or sticking out! Hang the board horizontally start with it touching the ceiling. So you have 12' run against the ceiling and work your way down. Let's say the wall is 8' 6". First horizontal row starts highest touching the ceiling. Then next row touches that. On your edges remember you have cornerbead that is a light metal the makes all corners straight. Do not run your drywall to the very exact edge.
This won't allow the cornerbead to be as pliable as the plasterer or drywall finish guy needs. Second, get a foot lift for walls; this makes seams tight as hell. All seams should be tight—hack work will be noticed by eyes and finished product with sunlight can reveal shit work. It all starts with hanging. Electrical outlets on wall. Get sheet into place and lean it away and spot where holes should go. Then tap those places with the ax end of hammer. Screw sheet into place, then route the holes: Find edge and then go around the perimeter by feel.
You shouldn't be patching small pieces. The 12' provide great scraps, just use them don't cut every full board then start to use cut offs. They need to be used together. Never use marker. It bleeds through and will never be covered by paint. Same with windows: run full size boards across the span the most effective direction.
Do not end a sheet next to a window. This causes a stress crack when the home settles!!! Say there's a hallway with a door and it is exactly 56" wide. Put that 56" across touching the ceiling then piece in the two small sides underneath. Save any scraps and if needed patch work for closets only.
Always run the if needed strip out of eyesight line. For example with walls: Full top row, full second row, then strip near floor. I am red seal journeyman interior systems mechanic I can put up or more sheets a day by standing vertical. Walls over 12' high stager but joints with backing added for proper fire rating. If you prefer horizontal then add backing every 4' along bevel for fire rating so ask yourself what makes since is faster and nicer finish least amount backing. Using sissor lift one man can do this by putting price of track at outside base of platform.
Stand sheet against wall climb on lift and lift sheet put in track and go up to height lift sheet top towards lift bottom towards wall place on top of existing sheet u can use you foot to insure sheet dose not slip then lean top into wall.
It is common sense something not many people have. Work smart not hard don't let drywall be smarter then you. Also any imperfection with the framing will show up like dogs balls if fixed vertically while it would simply be bridged otherwise.
Any light coming in through windows or doors will not immediately highlight the difference in texture like it would 3 or 4 joints running from top to bottom perpendicular to the light source.
Even in the case of long runs any finisher or painter would agree that one horizontal joint and two butts will give a way better finish than 7 or 8 vertical joints. Downlights etc are nothing compared to natural light when it comes to showing up joints and difference in texture.
I personally find it hard to believe it makes any difference to structural strength whether you fix horizontally or vertically. Regulations regarding fire proofing are something else but unlikely to be relevant to anyone reading this. I am aware the op has probably finished his project decades ago but somehow I stumbled across this so no doubt many others have as well and felt I should try to clear it up for anyone in the future as a lot of what has been said here is simply wrong.
Horizontal is more efficient, will give you a better finish and will give you less problems in the future with houses settling timber shrinking and all those lovely things, cheers.
Generally vertically; that way there isn't a horizontal join that may show a crack over time. Board lengths are usually sufficient that one board will cover floor to ceiling without a join.
The only time I'd expect to see it horizontal would be if it was the first layer, prior to it being covered by a second layer - where you want the joints to be staggered, for example when it is used for fire protection or sound attenuation. I've always believed horizontal was wrong because it leaves an unsupported seam.
That pro's do it to save time kind of says it all - it's an inferior installation done to make dry wall contractors more competitive. Good evening.
I believe you can hang it horizontally vertically or diagonal. It doesn't matter which way it's installed. A competent finisher can make any install proper.
The most convenient method of install should be applied accounting for waste and practicality. Call your building department and find out what the code is. I'm remodeling my kitchen and hung the drywall vertically on the walls. On inspection the inspector asked me why I hung it vertically. He told me it should be hung horizontally.
He told me it should be vertical only if it's a load-bearing wall and that only applies to commercial buildings, for residential it should be horizontal. So rather than guess, call your building department. Thats why it cups if you hang it vertically. I'm not a pro, and tend to cringe at having to deal with sheetrock, but from what I've read and seen, using 12' boards horizontally will have the benefits of:.
Personally, when I've had to do it myself alone vertical made more sense as it was just easier for me to hang solo. You pick which way On what? At one point I was told horizontal was the right way to go. But we had a house extension done recently and they told me vertical in general. But they have mixed it depending on the wall so they used either. What was more interesting was how many fixing screws they now add and how they have these bizarre recommendations that the builders have to follow but question.
Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically? Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 5 months ago. Active 11 months ago. Viewed k times. Improve this question. DMoore DMoore Drywall should be hung horizontally or vertically.
I like BMitch's comments and Herrbag's insight on this. I think there are two topics that I haven't seen covered that I have always wondered about. Without using Herrbag's technique, no one has a flat join on the butt joints, only the beveled ones are easy to fill with mud and tape to make them perfectly flat. For the butt joints, it's all about how good you are at mudding and using a wide taping knife to make the ridge nearly invisible.
Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. HerrBag HerrBag 12k 1 1 gold badge 17 17 silver badges 37 37 bronze badges. I've seen them used and do truly offer the opportinity for the flattest surface.
Perpendicular vs. Parallel Application Gypsum board may be applied perpendicular long edges of board at right angles to the framing members or parallel long edges parallel to framing. Strongest dimension of board runs across framing members. Bridges irregularities in alignment and spacing of frame members.
Better bracing strength—each board ties more frame members together than does parallel application. Horizontal joints on wall are at a convenient height for finishing. For ceiling application, use whichever method—parallel or perpendicular—results in fewer joints, or is required by frame spacing limitations For double-layer ceiling application, apply base-layer boards perpendicular to frame members; apply the face layer parallel to framing with joints offset.
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